Posted on 10/01/2018
It’s important to remember that the skin care staples don’t change, because your skin physiology is what it is and your environment isn’t going to change, in other words it is a fact that UV breaks down essential nutrients in the skin and they must be replaced in the form of good active skin care: the fundamentals are Vitamin A and antioxidants. Having said that the most profound progress the skin care industry is making lies in research on understanding skin physiology. The skin is a massively complex organ in which we are continually discovering new processes and new ingredients which will enhance or interact with the skin's physiology.
I was recently featured in NEXT magazine - If you haven't picked up your issue, I have elaborated on my key choices below.
My top choices for 2018 are
Tranexamic acid has been used safely in the medical industry for many years. Simply put, it is a compound of amino acids that breaks down clots in the body. This ingredient has been found to be very helpful in controlling dermal pigment, which is impossible to treat but can be controlled exceptionally well. Tranexamic acid binds to fibres and its main enzyme plasmin cuts the fibrin mesh at various places which is then cleared away by the body. In relation to pigmentation the parcels of pigment that sit in the dermis, and are untreatable with IPL or lasers, are broken-down by Tranexamic acid. Tranexamic acid has already arrived in skin care but I believe 2018 will see more prevalence of it in home care and ‘In Clinic treatments’. We have just launched the new Skin Medica Lytera 2.0 with tranexamic acid and I’m about to trial an ‘In Clinic treatment’ next week!
Activated charcoal has historically been used in hospitals for decontamination in the gastrointestinal tract. It has found to be effective as a topical skin product to draw out bacteria, chemicals, dirt and other micro particles, helping to achieve a clearer complexion with congested, oily skins.
Masking options are becoming much more sophisticated, having the capability to detoxify, hydrate, exfoliate and deliver nutrients.
Gut bacteria elevates the human immune system. Having a strong immune system benefits all the organs of the body, including the skin. They are known to help with atopic dermatitis, promote the healing of scars and burns and general skin health and rejuvenation.
From my experience I truly believe that the most progression in skin rejuvenation is through topical nutrients, this needs to start with the correct home care regime and can be enhanced with peels. Most people assume peels are aggressive and will lead to peeling, scabbing, and downtime; there is some times a place for these peels but the industry has turned toward a more progressive and strengthening approach. I follow the philosophy that exfoliation should be controlled and only used at appropriate times and used mainly as a medium to allow better absorption of essential nutrients, which come in the form of peels that are low or no acid and may contain peptides, vitamin C and vitamin A.
Encapsulating certain ingredients is becoming incredibly advanced as they develop systems that allow prolonged time release, and allow certain ingredients, that can potentially cancel each other out, to be put into the same formulation without compromising its efficacy, and maintain the active longevity of the product
Vitamin A is an integral and essential part of your skin cell. It is constantly broken down by UV and will therefore be chronically depleted for everyone. By replenishing the skin with Vitamin A, it will not only help to organise cell function but also reverse existing damage. It does this through a process called gene transcription - where damaged DNA coding is repaired.
There are many new forms of Vitamin A with more gentle delivery systems, increasing efficacy and decreasing irritation.
From your Skin Team Leader, Lauren.
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