Posted on 03/12/2018
A common mis-perception is that most people with a sensitive skin would do better with ‘natural’ skin care, but this is not the case. Granted some natural skin care may not aggravate the situation but generally it will not improve it either. A status quo may be achieved, but ideally, we would want to improve and strengthen the sensitive skin, so it is less reactive to change and environment. Genetics may determine how sensitive a skin may be, but it is a combination of those genetics making us more predisposed to inflammation which is significantly exacerbated by the environment, particularly UV.
It is common to see more sensitivity in fairer or lighter skin types. Fairer skin types produce a different type of melanin to darker skins and therefore have less natural protection. This skin type also is more susceptible to inflammation, with UV compounding the damage to the skin. Without sufficient protection, essential nutrients are broken down in the skin, creating a vicious cycle: as nutrients deplete, skin function and health decline, allowing for further damage and the cycle repeats to create very sensitive, reactive, impaired skins.
There are many ingredients derived from nature such as Vitamin C, which is essential to protect the skin against UV and is an important part of collagen production. Unfortunately, simply placing vitamin C on the skin will not absorb it effectively into the skin or remain stable and active. Often a process called ‘Chiral Correction’ is used for good cosmeceutical ingredients, as this involves altering the molecule to allow for much better absorption without irritation to the skin. There are also processes that allow for a slower, more sustained release of the active ingredient, which enables much higher doses to be delivered without irritation.
So, the answer is, everyone needs those key ingredients A, B, C and E but they really need to be at significant doses with effective delivery systems to be any use to the skin. Natural skin care is not capable of delivering these ingredients at a cellular level. Ideally a more sensitized, impaired skin would start on lower levels of these ingredients and as the skin strengthens it will tolerate higher doses giving further improvement.
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