There are some products out there that impair the skin and have completely the opposite effect to that which, as a skin specialist, we are trying to achieve.
When we initially meet and assess our clients, often the priority is to restore what is known as the ‘lipid barrier’, this is a protective barrier comprised of a fine balance of lipids, fats and ceramides. Its role is to protect against bacteria, viruses and retain the all-important hydration in the skin. Hydration isn’t just a feeling of superficial comfort but creates a homeostasis or balance that allows for healthy cell communication and function. If we strip the skin, or change the physiological make up of this lipid barrier, a cascade of events will follow – we have less protection from UV as protective antioxidants in the skin are broken down more easily, we lose water from the skin in significant amounts, which will go on to affect all functions that need a fluid environment to thrive in. What we begin to see is; dry, irritated skin, leading to
2) chronic redness
5) fine lines and wrinkles
6) bacterial imbalances.
There are many home care and make up products out there that will initiate or exacerbate this decline in the protective layer including cleansers, physical scrubs and makeup. Supermarket cleansers and scrubs reflect the price point by using cruder ingredients such as sodium sulphate derivatives: these are not in harmony with the skin’s ph. Targeted acne products often strip the skin, initially drying up lesions, but in the long term create more acne because of the breakdown in the barrier and loss of hydration. Over-use of scrubs create micro tears in the skin, making it more susceptible to irritation and bacteria – this is particularly noticeable if nutrients are not being replaced in the skin with good nutritional skin care.
What you should be using!
Aspect Dr Deep Clean Facial Cleanser is a great choice for a result-driven cleanser. When we use peeling or exfoliating agents at The Face Place it is with a view to use them as a medium for better absorption of essential Vitamins such as Vitamin A, Vitamin C and Peptides, it is detrimental to keep exfoliating for purely exfoliation purposes without replacing the ‘good stuff’. My favourite exfoliant product is Aspect Fruit Enzyme Mask which is a potent antioxidant-rich fruit enzyme mask designed to eliminate dead skin buildup and dissolve excessively peeling skin post procedure. It is perfect for moisturising, soothing and calming skin while providing gentle exfoliation and antioxidant protection.
Aspect Dr Deep Clean, $59, and Aspect Fruit Enzyme Mask, $65
Many make-up products create the same issues but in a different way. If you have a makeup with great coverage and it’s not a mineral, then it’s more than likely going to leach the lipid barrier from the skin. We frequently see dry, sensitized and acne prone skin caused by lack of nutrients and full coverage make ups.
Jane Iredale Brow Kit $79, and Lip Gloss, $62.
The majority of our clients have transitioned to Jane Eredale makeup – our top pick for makeup that actually helps the skin grow more beautiful – you can read more about the 5 Pros and Cons of Mineral Makeup here or shop our mineral makeup range here.
Remember, do your homework and seek out advise from a medical professional before investing in skin care. The saying “Cheap skincare isn’t good, and good skincare isn’t cheap” is true for the most part, but there are certainly high ticket products on the market that still cause damage to the skin!
Skin Team Leader